The art of the French market
A guide to market culture in France
There is a specific rhythm to a French market morning that hasn’t changed in decades. Long before the first shoppers arrive, there is the metallic clatter of van doors and the rhythmic thud of wooden crates being stacked on the pavement. In the winter, you see the breath of the producers as they work under the yellow glow of streetlights; in the summer, it is about beating the heat before the sun clears the rooftops.
For me, the market is the heartbeat of life here in the Haute Savoie and indeed throughout France. It is where the terroir actually meets the table. Wherever I travel in France, I always seek out the local markets. For those visiting, it can sometimes feel like a bit of a performance with unwritten rules. If you want to move beyond being a spectator and shop like a local, there are a few things to keep in mind.
The social contract: start with bonjour!
In a French market, the transaction is secondary to the greeting. You never simply point at a piece of Reblochon and ask the price. Every interaction begins with a clear, direct bonjour. It is the social glue of the market. It acknowledges the producer as a craftsman rather than just a vendor. Once you have established that connection, the service changes; you are no longer just a visitor, but a guest at their stall. This is true in any transaction in France, whether you are looking for something while stacking the shelves in the supermarket or asking for a table in a restaurant. I love this ‘French politesse’
Look but do not touch
This is the rule that catches most people out. In many cultures, you rummage through a pile of peaches to find the perfect one. In France, this is often seen as a lack of respect for the produce. Usually, the producer will select the fruit for you based on when you plan to eat it. If you want a melon for lunch today, tell them; if it is for tomorrow night, they will find one with just the right amount of give. Trust their expertise and pride in their produce.
I’ve often found that when engaging with the seller about what I wish to do with the produce I am buying, I am given hints and tips as to the best way to prepare and cook.
The craft of the producer
What makes our regional markets special is the direct link to the maker. When you stand at a cheese stall in the Savoie, you aren’t just buying dairy; you are often talking to the person who turned the milk or aged the wheel. You can see the pride in the way a saucisson is sliced to offer a taste, or how a baker handles his ‘pain levain’ (the French equivalent to sourdough). These are products of patience.
The real benefit of these markets is the direct link to the source. You have the chance to ask exactly which valley the honey came from or how long a cheese has been aged. It turns a simple purchase into a bit of an education on the local terroir that you simply won’t find in a supermarket aisle.
The seasonal cycle
The stalls act as a living calendar. In the spring, we look for the first slender stalks of asparagus and bags of wild garlic, followed by the morel mushrooms. The spring flowers start appearing too. By summer, the air is heavy with the scent of the soft fruits: apricots from the Drôme, peaches and local strawberries. Autumn brings the arrival of foraged mushrooms and the rich, earthy tones of squash, as well as game meats. Leading into the winter markets, where the smell of rotisserie chicken and diots (local sausages) in white wine dominates the cold air.
To help you plan your morning, here are some of the most reliable weekly markets in our corner of the Alps. Thers are many more and I am continually updating my events calendar with the weekly markets.
Tuesday: Annecy (Vieille Ville). Exceptional for local lake fish and artisanal cheeses.
Wednesday: Morzine. This market features local produce and crafts, larger in the winter & summer seasons
Thursday: Cruseilles. A smaller, authentic village atmosphere away from the crowds.
Thursday: Les Gets. This market features local produce and crafts, larger in the winter & summer seasons
Saturday: Annecy. The main event. Go early, by 10:00 it’s getting busy
Sunday: Seyssel. A beautiful setting right on the banks of the Rhône.
Sunday: Collonges-sous-Saleve. A lively, large market where you can find most everything
There is one very special daily market in Lyon which I absolutely love to visit every time I am in Lyon and that is The Halles de Lyon, recently voted the third BEST market in the World by Food & Wine in the US.
Your live seasonal diary
While these weekly markets are the foundation of local life, there is always something extra happening. A one-off cheese fair, a wine tasting in a local cave or a seasonal fete.
Because static lists quickly go out of date, I have created a live seasonal events diary on here on Taste of Savoie. I update this regularly with the specific dates for everything from the Marathon du Piano in Évian to the smallest village food festivals and the weekly markets.
Whether you are here for the photography, the food or simply the atmosphere, take your time. Find a spot at a nearby café around 11:00, order a coffee and just watch and enjoy the rhythm of market life. It is the best theatre in France.
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