Lyon – Le Bouchon
Le Bouchon
Lyon in the department Rhone has become my new favourite city since living in the Haute Savoie. How lucky am I to find myself living in the Rhone Alps region of France only an hour and a half from the gastronomic capital of France. There are some 3500 restaurants in Lyon including the famous Bouchon district in the old part of the city (le Vieux ville). A Bouchon is a type of restaurant in Lyon, serving traditional Lyonnaise cuisine. The dishes are mainly meaty, full fat and all parts of the animals.
Don’t be surprised to find dishes like andouillette, tripe or tête de veau on the menu – they’re not for the faint-hearted, but they’re an essential part of the Lyonnais experience.
The origins of the Bouchon of Lyon
The tradition of the Bouchons comes from small inns that were visited by the silk workers as they passed through Lyon in the 17th and 18th centuries.
The name bouchon derives from the expression for a bunch of twisted straw. Pictures of bundles of straw started to appear on the signs of these inns and restaurants and then these places became known as bouchons. The more common translation of bouchons is a cork or stopper for a bottle.
You need to speak Bouchon!
If you don’t speak french or more specifically Lyonnais, you may struggle to decipher the menu. Alongside all of the offal on offer, you will find fish dishes, the more mainstream meat cuts, bourgogne snails and cheese dishes.
You may be offered Grattons as a snack while you peruse the menu on the chalk board – these are crunchy cooked pork fat – like pork scratchings.
Here is a glossary with the translation of some of the most likely items you will find on a Lyonnais Bouchon menu.
| French | English/description |
|---|---|
| Quenelles de brochet | Pike fish dumplings (often served with a rich crayfish sauce, sauce Nantua) |
| Saucisson brioché | Sausage baked inside a brioche loaf |
| Gratin dauphinois | Sliced potatoes baked in cream and garlic |
| Salade lyonnaise | Frisée lettuce with warm bacon lardons, croutons, and a poached egg |
| Tablier de sapeur | Breaded and fried beef tripe (literally “fireman’s apron”) |
| Andouillette (A.A.A.A.A)* | Strongly flavoured coarse pork sausage made with intestines |
| Cervelle de canut | Herbed fromage blanc dip (literally “silk worker’s brain” – but don’t worry, it’s cheese!) |
| Oeufs en meurette | Poached eggs in a red wine sauce with lardons and mushrooms |
| Tête de veau | Calf’s head, often served with sauce gribiche |
| Pieds de porc | Pig’s trotters (braised or grilled) |
| Langue de bœuf | Ox tongue, usually served cold in vinaigrette or warm with sauce |
| Foie de veau | Calf’s liver, often pan-fried and served with onions |
| Jésus de Lyon / Rosette de Lyon | Local cured pork sausages |
| Fromage de tête | Brawn or head cheese – a terrine made from pig’s head |
| Tripes à la lyonnaise | Beef tripe stewed with onions and white wine |
| Pâté en croûte | Meat pâté baked in a pastry crust |
* Andouillette (A.A.A.A.A)
If you spot “Andouillette A.A.A.A.A.” on a menu the A.A.A.A.A. stands for the delightfully French:
Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Andouillette Authentique
(aka the Friendly Association of Lovers of Authentic Andouillette).
This prestigious label is awarded to andouillettes that meet strict standards of authenticity, texture, and let’s be honest the bold and unmistakable flavour. Think of it as the Michelin star of offal sausages.
It’s not for everyone (it has a famously pungent aroma), but for true lovers of traditional Lyonnais cuisine, A.A.A.A.A. is a badge of honour.
Typical dishes you would expect to find would be Fois gras, salad lyonnaise, boudin noir (blood sausage), Oeufs Meurette (eggs poached in a red wine sauce). Onglet de boeuf, tablier de sapeur (tripe), Rognons de veau (veal kidneys). The culinary delights found in a Bouchon are more substantial dishes, using fats and big flavours; not the French nouvelle cuisine that Lyon has become known for since the 1960s mainly thanks to the world-renowned chef Paul Bocuse.
On one visit to Lyon, we were recommended (by our neighbour a native Lyonnaise) Le Tire Bouchon. This traditional Bouchon in the heart of Old Lyon on the aptly named rue du Boeuf was a real find. We were warmly greeted by the owner and immediately made to feel at home in this small restaurant, which felt more like his dining room – but then I guess it is! Us tourists may have felt the decor a bit tired but to me, this just added to the authentic experience. The evening we spent in Le Tire Bouchon was a wonderful complete dining experience and great value for money. I can’t profess to be an expert on the Bouchons of Lyon yet, so far I have visited four Bouchons in Lyon and I intend to try as many as I can! I’ll keep you posted…
Update – 2025: Sadly Le Tire Bouchon is no longer open, but I wanted to keep this post alive as it is typical of many Bouchons in Lyon. I have visited Les Fines Gueules authentic bouchon for dinner a couple of times and during a food tour of Lyon and this is well worth a visit and I will write a post about this fine Bouchon.
Les Bouchons Lyonnais
There is an association that was founded in 2012 to safeguard the culinary tradition and foundations of the bouchons of Lyon. The bouchons have to meet certain criteria and standards to obtain membership in this elite list.
A few of the authentic details that must be adhered to are: The bouchon must have a counter, picturesque and warm decor, the tables are close together and all adorned with the red and white checked tablecloths. The furniture is wood and you would likely see copper pans hanging, old posters and Guignol, Gafron the local Lyon puppets on the walls. The bouchon must feel friendly, familiar, sharing and a warm place to be.
So if you are looking for the most authentic Lyonnais eating experience possible, consult the list of bouchons included on Les Bouchons Lyonnais.
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